On a striking wintry day on Savile Row in Mayfair, two openly dressed people move into Fedro Gaudenzi’s Savile Row atelier. They pick up a “priceless” suit on screen and move out before anyone could see. A piece of art that had required decades of meticulous planning was quickly lost in the dust.
“It was horrible”, Gaudenzi tells me. “It was our first prototype so it wasn’t perfect like we’d make for a client, but the piece had soul and history. The moment that went into it, the idea approach. Truly makes me angry. Gaudenzi decided to find the item, so he posted pictures on social media and paid to have them viewed by larger audiences. However, the fashion industry perceived the content as a marketing ruse rather than a petition for assistance. “All thought it was a plan”, says Gaudenzi. “A battle called’ The Stolen Dress.’ People would comment saying: ‘I love this part, I want to see it.’ I had to show people,’ No, this is not a prank.'”
As his comments traveled around the world, Gaudenzi was flooded with requests for the costume. The goal of his expected goal was to encourage the UK police to search more for the stolen object before recovering it. Julia Fox, the comedian and former Kanye West girl, was one of the readers who learned about the stolen costume, and she in touch with her to say she’d prefer to use it. After explaining that the suit was missing, Fox decided to work with Italian-born Londoner Gaudenzi, who would later turn her into a gourmet piece. Since then, Gaudenzi has created an exclusive piece for Fox to use on a upcoming purple carpet.
“I felt quite happy”, says Gaudenzi. “It’s the first time we’ve tried to make a part in less than a fortnight without seeing a client, based on a mannequin”. Although Gaudenzi claims he has then installed security cameras at the time of the robbery, he has already done so! He thinks that if the officers gave the situation more time, he might find and get it back.
The artist is pushing the boundaries on Savile Row.
Gaudenzi’s is shaking up. He runs a city level workshop, which means that he crafts all of his items in the cutting room on-site. Just a few of the original buildings also produce their designs on Savile Row; the majority of contemporary designers have studios abroad. “I think that’s the beauty of it”, he says. “Then you’re detached from how things are made”.
Gaudenzi relies on hype to get his job in front of clients because the stolen clothing provided valuable publicity for the stolen costume. Chances are stacked against smaller makers in the fashion industry because big brands like Chanel, Alexander McQueen, and Versace have agreements with actors to ensure their collections get attention on dark floors, generating attention and sales. Gaudenzi has a point about how more could be done to help the capital’s separate manufacturers. “The American Fashion Council could help by showcasing pieces by young makers”, says Gaudenzi. However, in the end, the universe is ultimately made up of funds. Thank god Hollywood intervened to save the day.