There is perhaps no nationality’s style that is more fêted than the French. But when Vogue asked the range of international customers attending a Vogue World fashion show in Paris to costume “à la Française”, it should have, on report, been the fanciest group imaginable.
Yet with homages to Jean Paul Gaultier’s cone dress (worn by British) and the Tricolore (on American) it was clear to see that our idea of what makes something “French” greatly varies to how French people actually dress. Eugénie Trochu, the mind of editorial material at European Vogue, wore a pale and navy rugby shirt, light small, black espadrilles and hoop earrings. The previous French Vogue director, wore a plain black dress by Rick Owens.
“People generally ask me, ‘What is the key to having European style?’ and I often answer that you just need truly great basics, which fit well and that are great quality”, shares Morgane Sézalory, the founder of cult, known for its increased basics, such as wool cardigans with cut- out backs or bow details. “To me, the French woman is characterised by her very natural attitude and style: usually no make- up, a fairly ‘wild’ hairstyle, and an outfit that mixes vintage and designer pieces.’
This perspective is a major component of why French women age so gracefully. “Being fuss free is very different from not making an effort,” shares French fashion editor, Pénélope Goldstone, who works in London. Even though she rarely leaves the house, my 92-year-old grandmother still dresses up and matches her handbag to her outfit.
With this in mind, Brigitte Macron, the country’s 71-year-old First Lady, is a sure starting point for France’s numerous style icons over the age of 50. And while she has a Louis Vuitton wardrobe to wear, her style guidelines are in line with Sézalory’s theory: she merely wears mini skirts (to show off her slim legs), power suits, and a monochrome color scheme.
There’s also the 61- year- old actress Philippine Leroy- Beaulieu, of Emily in Paris fame, who much like her on- screen character has a reputation for channelling effortless elegance. While she adheres to a tried-and-true formula of small black or white Schiaparelli or Saint Laurent on the red carpet, when she’s not working, she has a penchant for nude-colored knits and great jeans.
In order to avoid looking de trop, it’s essential to do your fashion maths before leaving the house, as Goldstone explains. Although I wouldn’t say we consciously follow a “less is more” style, think Coco Chanel’s “take one thing off before you leave the house” rule. she shares. “It’s a balancing act, for example if we wear short skirts or dresses we won’t have much cleavage on show, we don’t tend to wear more than 2- 3 different colours at the same time, or if wearing print, stick to the one statement piece.”
“It’s all about balance”, agrees Anne- Laure Moreau, creative director of French fashion brand Musier Paris. “During summer, less is more is a real thing. I also like to mix styles. If I wear sporty shorts for example, I will add some feminine ballerinas and pearl earrings, it is all about balance. I believe it is more about attitude than actual fashion. It is the way you wear clothes.”
Goldstone’s tips to anyone wanting to look more ‘French’? She explains that “I think French style is generally more pared back than British style, focusing on timeless basics with the occasional statement piece, and not leaning too heavily into trends.” “So to look more ‘French’, you should invest in a good capsule wardrobe: high waist flared jeans, denim shorts, an oversized white shirt ( preferably men’s ), a Breton top, a little black dress, a floral slip dress, espadrilles, a basket bag and cat eye sunglasses.”
The latter pieces on Goldstone’s list conjure up the wardrobe of millennial style icon, Jeanne Damas, of the French fashion brand Rouje, who proves Gallic savoir- faire doesn’t simply mean boring or monochrome. Indeed, her best- selling item, the Gabin dress, is a modern take on a 1940s classic, with tie- front, deep V and midi- length skirt. What started out in a few colorways and a polka dot print is now available in 17 different versions. It’s all about having an attitude of insouciance.
Gabin dress, £215,
Sézalory succinctly explains the ultimate French philosophy when all is said and done, though. “The most important thing above all else is to feel good in what you’re wearing”, she says. “Being able to move freely, and knowing what suits you, makes you feel good in your clothes.”