One of the clothing industry’s most memorable is the gauze gown, the form-fitting gown that was the. It was created by custom Hervé L. Leroux, who went on to become Hervé Léger.
Leroux, who was really born Hervé Peugnet on May 30, 1957, in Bapaume in northwestern France, studied artwork and craft history at the École Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts in Paris before dropping out to become a hairdresser and dressmaker.
Who encouraged him to do a career in fashion design in 1981. Lagerfeld advised him to adopt a Léger title that would be simpler for Americans to spell. Prior to launching his own firm in 1985, Léger registered the name Hervé Léger and worked with Lagerfeld at Chanel, Fendi, and after freelance at Lanvin and Diane von Furstenberg. [ He assumed the name Hervé Leroux in 2000 after he lost the right to Hervé Léger. ]
The house ventured into ready-to-wear in 1993 and its viscose “bandage ” — formed from dozens of elasticated bandage-style strips of knitted cloth, creating a body-sculpting, skin-tight silhouette — became an immediate sensation, with sales soaring from$ 600,000 generated solely from haute couture in 1992 to$ 10. 6 million in 1984, owing to its ready-to-wear and the album of a sail set. American Royal Serena Linley became a lover, as did the late Diana, Princess of Wales, who sported one of Léger’s backless garments at Versailles. Nicole Kidman wore them in “Batman Forever. ”
The tape gown quickly gained popularity among celebs who walk the red floor. Those who have been seen in the, Blake Lively, Rihanna, Paris Hilton, Britney Spears and Victoria Beckham. The costume, which not only provided support, accentuated the wearer’s shapes, giving them an hourglass shape.
At second family-run, the Hervé Léger home received much-needed support in 1994 from Seagram Co. Ltd. ’s Paris-based Champagne G. H. Mumm & Cie sector, which even took a 50 cent stake in the company. This made it possible for its Paris airport shows to expand more lavishly and for its retail sales to expand. A Paris store on Rue Faubourg Saint-Honoré opened in 1995.
For an unknown sum, Azria purchased about 99 percent of Hervé Léger’s capital and the trademarked name from Seagram’s in October 1998. The brewers had invested some $19 into the project. Léger received $8 million over the course of four years, resulting in $3 in losses. 3 million to $4. 1 million annually on sales of roughly $10 million inexpensive, 40 percent of which was in the U. S.
Hervé Léger and BCBG have a lot of synergies, according to Max Azria at the time, noting that he had been looking for some time to purchase a European company that would allow him to expand in Europe and expand into the artist class.
When Azria bought Léger, it was saddled with large costs, including galleries for prada and a rtw team of 31 full-time people. However, Azria had hoped to make up for lost overhead by expanding sales quickly because it is a rare property to have such experienced in-house ateliers.
Bernard Calvet, a well-known figure in French professional circles for his work at Shell Oil Co., was appointed as president. Production would be increased from three collections periodically, including a cruise variety, according to Calvet at the time. The home had a little secret couture enterprise, but Azria wanted to add two couture series and two pre-collections. He even opened shops in Los Angeles, Paris and New York.
In April 1999, Azria ousted Léger, saying, “I gave a chance to the developer. I bought the business because I thought it might be successful and because I believed we could turn things around. We gave Hervé the chance to show himself and become the best he could be. We reinforced the equipment. However, the entire fresh team at work was unable to collaborate with [him].”
“We know what we are doing, ” Azria added. The item you put on the table is ultimately what matters, in my opinion. The Léger selection will be more present, more powerful, and the idea will be recognized as the spirit of the beautiful woman. The buyer anticipates and desires this. ”
That same month, Azria hired knit expert Eric Sartori as head custom, but Sartori quit in October 1999, less than a fortnight after showing his second set. Léger couture custom Jerome Dreyfuss, who showed his even couture set for the property in July 1999, likewise departed, in November 1999.
( For his piece, custom Hervé Léger launched a series and a Paris factory in 2000 under the title Hervé L. Leroux — another advice from Lagerfeld. )
The Léger company went on break until it returned to shop in 2007 under the design manner of Max and Lubov Azria, and it made its debut at New York Fashion Week in February 2008 as Hervé Léger by Max Azria, showing the drop 2008 collection.
WWD’s drop 2008 review read: “With a new era of Hollywood starlets pouring their Pilates-toned bods into Hervé Léger’s unique tape dresses, Max Azria decided to present his second Léger airport show since acquiring the organization. With some variations in knits and a pretty degradés palette, Azria worked to make the bandage look his own rather than resting on Léger’s laurels. He decorated many with silk organza and feathers, but he occasionally got sucked in. This is a look that ’s best left unadorned, as exemplified in a parade of 15 full-on bandage dresses, all of them cut up to here and plunging to there. ”
Said Lubov, “The bandage dress is a true innovation because there’s nothing like it in the market. There are no patterns. Pins are used to sew the individual bandages together and apply them manually. So basically, it’s a labor of love. As much as you see the product everywhere, it’s not made in large quantities. The most we can make is 100, compared to the other two that we occasionally only make two of. It’s a very focused business and to work with one type of yarn is so challenging, and yet amazing.”
Since then, Lubov has tried to invent new materials and styles.
“To have that brand and to work on that brand is such an honor, and we respect it, and I think that ’s the reason we are able to innovate it constantly,” she said. The designers tried to make some less body-conscious pieces, such as A-line skirts, but other design elements, like raglan sleeves, were left on the drawing board. “We tried so many different silhouettes, but with bandages, unless they are really close to your body, they don’t look that attractive,” said Lubov.
She continued to say that a woman should not have a model figure in order to carry off a Léger.
“Most people say it ’s about body shape but I think it ’s about confidence level. What’s great about Hervé Léger is when you put that dress on, it changes everything. People look at you differently,” said Lubov.
In 2014, Hervé Léger was sold in 92 wholesale doors and had 13 boutiques in the U. S. on Rodeo Drive in Southern California; at the Century City Westfield mall on Melrose Avenue, and in South Coast Plaza; in New York’s SoHo and on Madison Avenue; in Las Vegas ’ Miracle Mile Shops and The Venetian; in Florida’s Palm Beach and Aventura; Atlanta; Troy, Mich. , and Paramus, N. J.
Internationally, its major retail partners included Harrods, Selfridges, Tsum and Harvey Nichols, and there are brand boutiques in Paris; Rome; London; Geneva; Luxembourg; Manila; St. Petersburg, Russia; Moscow ( two ); Beirut; Abu Dhabi; Dubai ( two ), and Adelaide, Australia. The Middle East and the categories of shoe, handbag, and fragrance saw the greatest growth opportunities.
In February 2017, BCBG filed for bankruptcy protection. In August 2017, Marquee Brands LLC acquired the entire portfolio of brands from BCBG Max Azria Global Holdings, LLC, including BCBGMaxAzria, BCBGeneration, and Hervé Léger. Hervé Léger brand was sold to Marquee Brands in October 2017 by brand management firm Authentic Brands Group. Terms of the transaction weren’t disclosed.
Leroux passed away in 2017 at the age of 60 from a ruptured aneurysm. WWD reported in his obituary that Dita Von Teese, the burlesque star, wrote on her Instagram, “He made the most exquisite dresses that showcased a woman’s beauty, rather than distracting from it. I could have easily only ever worn his dresses, but we would have had the best time. ”
In the 1990s, Leroux’s catwalk shows, which included the likes of Cindy Crawford, Nadja Auermann, Carla Bruni, and Helena Christensen, were among the hottest tickets on the block, according to Alexis Mabille’s WWD obituary. “If you had a banging body, you wore Hervé Léger or Alaïa, ” he said.
“The dresses are impeccable. If you are fortunate enough to see them up close, it’s absolutely amazing. They sculpt the body with a support structure inside, but everything is very comfortable. You could be a fantasy version of yourself, totally gorgeous with a controlled waist and hips, yet still be at ease,” Mabille said.
In 2018, Christian Juul Nielsen became creative director of Hervé Léger. During his tenure, he married the sensual simplicity of iconic ’90s Hervé Léger. with the cutting-edge minimalism of his native Denmark. His draping-focused design approach celebrated the female form.
In 2023,, who designed the luxury womenswear collection, Et Ochs, was named as creative director of Hervé Léger, taking over from Nielsen. Nielsen intended to concentrate on the advanced contemporary line he launched in 2019 with his own label, Aknvas.
“As the newly appointed creative director of Hervé Léger, my goal is to propel the brand into the future defined by innovation, sophistication and empowerment. This month, Ochs stated that they are committed to enhancing the brand’s global presence by creating pieces that appeal to the modern woman while honoring the brand’s iconic legacy.”
Melissa Lefere-Cobb, senior vice president, division head of Hervé Léger at Centric Brands [which licensed it from Authentic ] said, “For almost a decade, we have worked extremely close with Authentic Brands Group to expand Hervé Léger’s presence and preserve its legacy as a world-renowned brand. This success is attested by the expansion of the brand’s wholesale accounts, the strengthening of its retailer relationships, and its high level of involvement with top-notch talent and celebrities. Since Michelle Ochs was appointed creative director, we have seen a rise in brand acclaim and visibility that transcends generations and affirms Hervé Léger’s status as an icon in the luxury fashion industry. ”
The brand is available at retailers such as Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue, Revolve, Net-a-porter, Selfridges and Harrods.
Recently, Ochs, in collaboration with stylist Andrew Mukamal, crafted a dress for Margot Robbie’s press tour. The dress took inspiration from the recognizable “No.” 1” dress from 1959, a piece that is showcased in the upcoming book, “Barbie: The World Tour. ” Other noted celebrities that Ochs has dressed in Hervé Léger include America Ferrera, Shay Mitchell, Rita Ora, Tessa Brooks, Jenna Dewan, Leslie Bibb and Meghan Fox.
In showing her debut fall ’24 last February, Ochs said, “We’re still building on the DNA. ” Bandage fabric strips, and their cinching power, were seen throughout, like a red tank dress — a signature color — but also in a range of layering pieces like sheer tops or liquid button-downs with a subtle strip of well-known fabric down the back, WWD reported.”